Thrivikramangalam Mahavishnu Temple
Thiru Ananthapuram is home to many ancient temples and one of the oldest among them is the Thrivikramangalam Mahavishnu Temple. Hidden away in an out of the way scenic spot on the west bank of the meandering Karamana river, though well within the city limits and hardly 5 km from the central railway station or bus stand, the shrine does not get the attention it deserves from the traveller or the pilgrim.
The temple dates back to the 11th-12th C. period, and in all probability was a great example of the sculptural extravagance of the era. Unlike most other temples, what is unique here is that its construction employed some ancient techniques and uncommon materials, most of which have been eroded away by the harsh weather and lack of any conservation efforts. The Department of Archaeology has declared the temple a protected monument -- but only after most of the damage was done, and the fine carvings and murals on the sanctum walls had been irrecoverably damaged. But what remains still offers a glimpse into the past glory and grandeur of the temple.
The square sanctum is three-storeyed ('thrithala' design), with tiled roof and a granite base. But the super structure appears to be built of a rare variety of pink soft laterite type stone and stucco plaster. Most of the finely detailed stucco work carvings and all the murals have disappeared by now. The Department of Archaeology had attempted scientific conservation of the murals of the north wall sometime back, but the ravages of the weather have erased all that by now.
The chief deity is Mahavishnu in the 'Thrivikrama' aspect. (Many sources and even the Travancore Devaswom board presents this temple as a Vamanamoorthy temple, though it may be noted that the temple gets no mention in the list of Vamanamoorthy temples. The life-size idol in the sanctum also is in conflict with the Vamana label.) The impressive Vishnu idol in the 'garbha griha' is 6 feet tall and in the traditional pose. Sub deities are Ganapathy, Sastha and Siva, ensconced in a small shrine adjacent to the sanctum in the south-east corner. Within the Nalambalam, in the north-west corner there is a Devi pratishta. Nagas are outside the Nalambalam in the south-west corner. The wonderfully detailed carvings in stone of the fairly large 'dwarapalakas', dancers, musicians etc on the Sopanam that have stood the test of time are noteworthy examples of the sculptural excellence of the period.
For long the temple was owned by the Koopakkara Madhom (who had tantric rights in many temples including the Sree Padmanabhaswamy temple), though later it was taken over by the Travancore Devaswom Board.
For the avid traveller and pilgrim, the temple offers an unmatched experience in a calm and peaceful riverside setting so typical of the countryside of yesteryears .
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