Cherthala Karthyayani Devi Temple

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For the devotee, the Cherthala Karthyayani Devi temple is somewhat special, probably because it is believed that the Devi is easily propitiated and she is 'Mangalya Dayini'--giving prosperity and plenty to the devotee. Another very popular belief, especially among women, is that prayers to her regarding 'mangalyam' (marriage) is a sure-fire guarantee to obtaining a suitable groom. A pilgrimage to the Devi's sanctum is capable of removing in a trice every possible obstacle to a "happy mangalyam" for the eligible young ladies. Many others, particularly travellers, get attracted to the annual festival Cherthala Pooram, which, after the famous Thrissur Pooram, is perhaps the second biggest in Kerala, when huge crowds gather.

The temple is an ancient one, at least as old as the famous Padmanabhaswamy temple in Thiruvananthapuram. Legends connect the temple and its consecration to Sage Vilwamangalam Swamiyar. After consecrating Anantha Padmanbha at Thiruvananthapuram, the sage was returning home. While resting near the present temple location, he noticed a perfect young maiden on a swing beneath a Chambaka tree, and divined that this was Goddess Karthyayani. He could not approach her as she evaded him by diving into a deep pond. This hide and seek between the goddess and Swamiyar continued for six long days, the Godess disappearing into the depths of respectively Kalikulam, Pallikulam, Cherakulam, Pullamkulam, Kelankulam and Trippurakulam. On the seventh day as she dove into the mud-filled Karuppankulam, the Swamiyar caught hold of her tresses and lifted her up, made her sit on its shore, and consecrated her then and there. The Swamiyar's angry response to the mischievous Goddess finds echoes in today's "poorappattu" (songs addressed to the Goddess, with no expletives deleted!) at the time of the annual festival. (This is a tradition in a few other Devi temples also in Kerala, probably the most in/famous one being Kodungalloor Bharani.) This incident, it is said, also accounts for the origin of the place name Cherthala, which can be translated as 'muddy head'. 

The sanctum of the Goddess is a few feet below ground level and only her head is clearly visible.  Sub shrines are there for Ganapathy, Dharma Sastha, Vishnu and Siva. There is another interesting lore about Sastha, and how following the Devi's request, Sastha had gone out to vanquish a Gandharva who was a big nuisance. When he returned, it is believed, the Devi asked him to continue outside as a protector, and today we see him ensconced within a shrine built outside as 'Kavu Udayon', carrying a big mace in his hand. It is interesting to note that pilgrims make offering of coloured maces to Kavu Udayon when they are troubled by various problems and fears.

A notable sight here is the free-ranging cockerels in the temple courtyard. Devotees offer them to the Goddess and they have the run of the place, and they dirty the courtyard too. Normally Hindu temples are squeaky clean and this is a sight that does not go down well with many pilgrims. In the olden days, these birds were offered for sacrifice, a common practice in many Devi temples. Now that animal sacrifice has been prohibited, they are let loose in the temple precincts, and often pilgrims feed them grains as an offering. (It may be noted that in many Devi temples, such birds are auctioned off at the end of the day.)

Another peculiarity is connected with the popular offerings at the temple called 'Iratti' and 'Thadi';  Iratti is the usual Ghee Payasam, but with double the quantity of jaggery used in its preparation. Thadi is a stranger concoction unique to this temple. Rice flour, jaggery, and coconut are mixed with powdered dry ginger and other spices into a thick paste. This is then placed in a sheath of areca nut frond, and then baked in a hole dug in sand and covered with burning coconut shells. The baked offering has the consistency of wood ('thadi') and is supposed to be an exotica liked by the Goddess.

By any reckoning the Karthyayani Devi temple is a shrine the traveller and the pilgrim must add to his/her itinerary for one reason or another. A short detour from the National Highway will take you to the ancient shrine and some out of the ordinary experiences too.

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