Nagerkovil Nagaraja Temple

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Today's  hassled traveller, negotiating the busy and over-crowded streets of Nagercoil, hardly has pause to reflect on the town's name or significance. The town, once long ago a small hamlet, obviously, took its name from the 'kovil', around which it grew and prospered. The ancient Nagaraja temple here dates back to 12th C. or earlier as can be judged from the architectural features and epigraphy, while iconographic evidence points to the strong presence of Jainist roots. But knowledgeable pundits have averred that the temple is more a "symbol of fusion and religious integration than one of conflict", as studies have revealed the slow fusion and co-existence of Jaina, Vaishnava and Shaiva aspects here.

Till the re-organization of States when the town became part of Tamil Nadu, the temple was patronized by the Travancore Kings, as the medieval Venad Kingdom and the later Travancore (under the valiant Marthanda Varma) had stretched till the land's end at Kanyakumari. The ancient shrine continues to attract pilgrims from far and wide as it is a prime centre for Naga worship. The primary sanctum is still maintained in the original form of a low hut with a coconut thatch, which is renewed yearly during the month of Aadi (July-August). The five-headed Nagaraja idol, supposed to be 'Swayambhu' (manifest by itself), sits on the soil (it was said to be discovered in a paddy field long back), and devotees are offered a pinch of the sand from the sanctum as 'prasadam'. It is said, the sand is black during  Dakshinayanam, and white during Utharayanam (the northward sojourn of the Sun, when the the Gods are said to be 'awake' and in their full powers). There are two snake Dwarapalakas in front of the sanctum-- the male is Dharmendran and the female Padmavathi.

To the right of the sanctum are shrines dedicated to Ananthakrishna (baby Krishna dancing on a coiled snake) and Kasi Viswanatha. An interesting wrinkle is that though the chief deity is Nagaraja, the flag mast is erected in front of Lord Ananthakrishna. Not only that, in a deviation from tradition, instead of Garuda, the natural enemy of snakes, a 'koorma' icon (turtle)  is seen atop the flagstaff. Also, the last pooja of the day is offered to Lord Ananthakrishna. There is the later addition of a shrine for Durga, known as Theertha Durga, as the idol was discovered in a sacred spring. Sub deities include goddess Rukmini, Satyabhama, Ganapathi, Dharma Sastha, and Bala Murugan. Daily temple timings are generally from 04:00 am to 11:30 am and evening darshan from 05:00 pm to 08:30 pm. The rituals still follow Kerala Tantric traditions and the priests are ordained by the famous Pambumekkat Mana in Thrissur, Kerala.

The annual temple festival is the ten-day Brahmotsavam that falls in the Tamil month of Thai (January-February). However, many devotees consider the Ayilyam festival during the Malayalam month of Thulam (October-November) to be the more auspicious one. Twelve days of special poojas and tantric rituals mark this festival, which, again is celebrated in most other Naga shrines elsewhere in Kerala. Ayilya (Asleha) days are thought to be particularly propitious for making offerings at Naga shrines. However, round the year, every day sees crowds of pilgrims at the temple making offerings of turmeric and milk to the Nagas, which it is believed, will bring them prosperity and relief from Naga Doshas.

Though hardly a stone's throw from the din and bustle of the town, the temple is a haven of peace and quiet, and a visit is sure to renew in our minds the need to maintain strong bonds with nature and its forces and creatures. A short detour from the main arterial road will in all likelihood reward the traveller or pilgrim with a connect with our hoary past and also with the spirit of inclusivity of nature and all creatures in nature that marked the culture of our forebears.

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